Name given to leather that has kept its original grain and where the colour has been obtained by total immersion in a vat of dye and not by the application of a coloured coating.
Glossary
Considered to be the most beautiful leather because the original grain is visible. It requires special care as there is little protection of the surface.
A moccasin-type shoe that is flat, with a closed toe, no strap and no heel. The original version was a dance shoe worn by ballerinas.
Material made up of leather scraps mixed with bonding materials where the proportion of leather fibres cannot be less than 50% of the dry weight.
Chrome-tanned calfskin. It has a smooth finish. It is used for top-of-the-range leather goods and footwear.
Also known as mineral tanning. The leather is tanned using tannin made from chrome salts that makes it supple and elastic.
Name given to leather or split suede covered in a coating or film applied by induction or lamination, the thickness of which must not exceed one third of the total thickness of the product, but which is greater than 0.15mm
From the Italian “scarpino” meaning little shoe. It is a simple woman's slip on shoe. The heel height varies.
Flesh split is produced by splitting thick leather into two sheets, one containing the grain and called “leather” and the other made up of the flesh of the leather, called “flesh split”. The “suede” finish has a fibrous look. “Pigmented” or “coated” hide is covered by a thick coating which gives it a smooth look. The use of flesh split for upholstery and leather goods has to be specified as it is not allowed to be described as “leather”.
The vertical strip of leather used to join the front and back sections of a glove finger, also called the sidewall or gusset.
Shoe that is laced from the toe to the ankle. Made from very supple leather, it is similar to Irish or Scottish dance shoes.
More refined than the Norwegian welt but just as solid, it owes its name to the inventor of the machine. The constituent elements of the shoe such as the welts and the upper are assembled by a seam that is invisible once the shoe is finished.
Finishes on full-grain or split leather produced by reproduction, printing or any other means with the aim of imitating the grain of skin of an animal or species or the texture of another material.
Tanned leather with an irregular and dark marbled look. The proportion of oil is generally more than the average of 15% Consequently it is highly nourished leather (usually in drums) and as a result of its weight, it is mainly used for footwear and occasionally for clothing.
Product made from animal skins through a process of tanning or impregnation that maintains the natural structure of the skin fibres and all or part of the natural grain.
Shoe with a supple sole that was originally worn by North American Indians. Also called a “loafer”.
Thick goat leather with a distinctive grain. It was originally produced in Morocco and is used to make leather goods.
Leather made velvety through buffing. It is particularly sensitive to light and requires specific care.
Shoes that are completely open at the front. The opening is larger than for a “peep toe”, allowing almost all the toes to be seen.
A very ancient material, long used for writing. Made from the skin of goats and sheep, it is used in the manufacture of decorative objects, in furniture restoration and for ancient books.
Shoes that are open at the front allowing toes to be glimpsed. Less open than the “open toe”.
Name given to full-grain or split leather where the coloured finish is obtained by the use of pigments.
Leather that has kept its original grain. A pigmented protection helps to minimise damage to the skin. The look and the texture are less natural than for the aniline full grain, but it is easier to look after.
Transformation of hide into leather either using chrome salts or plant tannins in order to make it rot-resistant.
The upper is attached to the sole by a double stitch through the leather, visible from the exterior of the shoe. It was original used for mountain boots.
Leather tanning using bark, fruits, roots or leaves. The finished product is often quite firm, with no elasticity and it is sensitive to light. It is used for saddle making, for the soles of shoes and for industrial belts.
A supple strip of leather attached around the shoe. It main function is to attach the upper to the outsole.
Term used to designate leather immediately after tanning and before it has been coloured and nourished.